Most people go straight to the enormous Reclining Buddha in the northern section. It's more than 140 feet long and 50 feet high, and was built during the mid-19th-century reign of Rama III. The statue is brick, covered with layers of plaster, and always-flaking gold leaf; the feet are inlaid with mother-of-pearl illustrations of 108 auspicious laksanas ("characteristics") of the Buddha.

Outside, the grounds contain 91 chedis (stupas or mounds), four wihaans (halls), and a bot (the central shrine in a Buddhist temple). Most impressive, aside from the Reclining Buddha, are the four main chedis dedicated to the first four Chakri kings and, nearby, the library. Wat Po is among the most photogenic of all the wats in Bangkok.

Of all the major temples in Bangkok, this is one of the most active. The temple is considered Thailand's first public university, because many of its monuments and artworks explain principles of religion, science, and literature. Visitors still drop 1-satang coins in 108 bronze bowls--corresponding to the 108 auspicious characteristics of the Buddha--for good fortune and to help the monks keep up the wat.

You can learn about traditional Thai massage and medicine at the Traditional Medical Practitioners Association Center and even receive a restorative medical massage in the afternoon for about 200B an hour--but be advised that therapy massage is a serious discipline and rather rigorous. (True Thai massage, in contrast to the services offered at most "massage parlors," involves chiropractic manipulation and acupressure, as well as stretching, stroking, and kneading, and is something to be endured for its sensational salubrious effects. Massage courses of 7-10 days are also available.) You can hire a well-informed and entertaining English-speaking guide; he will find you and offer their services for about 200B-400B, depending on the number in the party. There are also a few astrologers and palm readers available for consultation. For a small donation you can receive a blessing from a monk and a bracelet of braided colored string to commemorate the occasion. (Donations go toward the renovation in progress, which is expected to cost well over fifty million baht.)